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Greetings!

Thanks for visiting my vintage Hamilton watch blog. I like to restore US-made Hamilton wrist watches back to their original glory and share my experiences with other enthusiasts. Use the "Search" space below if you know what model you're looking for. Feel free to leave polite comments or questions in the spaces provided. Also check out my "watches for sale" on my Etsy site - the link is on the right, just below.

Tuesday, December 31, 2024

1950 Austin

The early 1950s was the beginning of the end for the 14/0 sized movements that Hamilton introduced in the early 1930s.  That was a pretty long run for the 980 and 982 movements.  There were technological advances along the way and the 982M was introduced in 1940 but, for the most part, the 17 jewel 980 and 19 jewel 982/982M powered the majority of tank-shaped rectangular men's models

One of the transition models was the 1940 Austin.  It looks very similar to earlier models like the Dennis and even some of the 1930 models like the Cabot and Carson.  Unlike earlier models though, the Austin was available with a bracelet - this was a trend started in the late 1940s and would continue for the next 20 years.


The Austin was produced in a 10K gold filled case and that would imply it has a 17 jewel 980 movement.  14K gold filled models would get the 19 jewel 982.  The 982M was reserved for solid gold models.  The majority of Hamilton dials are this period has sterling silver dials and solid 18K gold markers or numerals.  So even the most basic Hamilton models still had top of the line features.

In 1952 the Austin was depicted with a different dial.  Instead of all numerals, markers were introduced in the odd-numbered positions.  The two-tone dial used previously was replaced with a single colored dial.  This was also the year that the 14/0 movements were replaced by new 12/0 calibers.  The 17 jewel 980 was replaced by the 12/0 752 movement.  Because the movements had different shapes, although the outside of the cases were identical, the insides couldn't be.  So the 12/0 cased versions were known as "B" models.  The Austin wasn't marketed as the Austin-B so it's not clear if you'll find 980 Austins with this new dial or not - but if you do see this dial, it's likely an Austin-B.


My project watch is clearly the earlier dial pattern - well maybe not entirely clearly, as the dial is extremely beat up.  However, you can see the dial as a two-tone design.  This effect is a result of brushing the finish in different directions.  The inner section is brushed vertically and the outer section is brushed horizontally - so the dark / light sections change depending on how the light hits the dial.


The crown on this watch is obviously shot.  With some luck I may be able to clean up the dial a little but it will only get slightly better.  Too much cleaning and it will be ruined.


This version of the 980 is highly damascened.  Based on the serial number, this movement was made in 1950.  The only difference between this and a 982 is the 982 would have a cap jewel covering the escape wheel in the train bridge.  It's a very pretty movement - considering only a watchmaker would be likely to look inside the case.


The inside of the case back shows the model name, along with the finger prints of someone handling the watch.


The dial-side of the main plate is unremarkable, other than the remnants of the crown on the stem.


The mainspring is an old blue steel design.  It's likely "set" and lost most of it's strength but, more importantly, this one has also broken.  So it needs to replaced for sure.


While everything is being cleaned I will prep a new glass crystal and Dynavar mainspring for installation.


All the parts are cleaned and dried before being reassembled.  I still need to dig out a replacement crown.


The new crystal is enjoying some UV rays while the glue dries in the bezel.


Looking closely at the 4th wheel, I can see the pivot is bent.  This will definitely impact the timing so I will replace it.


The freshly reassembled movement is now ticking away with a good motion.  Let's see what the timer has to say for it.


Looking good - a slight tweak to the regulator will bring the timing in line.


The finished watch looks great with a new crystal, crown, and strap.  The dial cleaned up fairly well and shows good, honest age that you'd expect from a 75 year old watch.


Wednesday, December 25, 2024

Merry Christmas - 2024!

2024 has been a very difficult year for me, following on the coattail of several difficult years.   It hasn't been all bad, thank goodness, and I consider myself to be very blessed and fortunate overall.  However, I am now an "orphan" and celebrating my first Christmas in 57 years without my parents.  

It's been a little hard to get into the Christmas spirit, to be honest, but I think I finally made it.

A dear friend of mine shared a song by Ingrid Andres called, "Christmas Always Finds Me" and it makes me realize that I am not alone in this struggle.

    Through the years I've moved a lot    Different doors with different locks    But somehow Christmas always finds me    It's been a while since I wished    For roller blades and pixie sticks    But somehow Christmas always finds me
    When silver bells and silent night    And mistletoe's nowhere in sight    With no chance of snow falling down    Another year older    Little harder to believe    But somehow Christmas always finds me
    In traffic jams and shopping malls    I lose the magic of it all    But somehow Christmas always finds me
    When silver bells and silent night    And mistletoe's nowhere in sight    With no chance of snow falling down    Another year older    Little harder to believe    But somehow Christmas always finds me
    It takes me back to younger days    Of stockings on the fireplace    And presents stacked    And waiting by the tree    And even if I'm all alone    A million miles away from home    It shows up in a warm memory
    Another year older    Getting harder to believe    But somehow Christmas always find me

Like everyone, I suspect, I have very fond memories of long ago Christmases.  My parents did their best to invest in me the true meaning of Christmas while also providing lots of great memories of Santa's deliveries, good meals and loads of family lore.  I have done my best to do the same with my children.

To understand the true meaning of Christmas you must recognize that we are all mortal.  As John 3:16 says, "For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life".  Easter should be a bigger celebration than Christmas but without Christmas, there would be no Easter, and without an Easter no hope for everlasting life.

So I grieve the loss of my parents but can celebrate Christmas even more.  

I also lost my donkey, Bill, this year and as I laid him in the ground of our pasture I said a simple prayer that any descendant of the animal worthy to carry the Mother of Jesus into Bethlehem would surely find a place in heaven with my parents.


One of the reasons I like vintage Hamiltons is they make wonderful heirlooms... especially when they are given as Christmas presents.  Christmas gifts or not, vintage Hamiltons are treasured by the descendants of their original owners.  They are priceless.

My project watch for this Christmas post is not a ghost of Christmas past but it is a special watch nonetheless.  It's not a common model.  In fact, it's the first one I've seen, even in photos.  It's a 1962 Thin-o-matic T-205.

The T-205 was produced for three years and there's no easy way to date one unless it's engraved.  What's interesting about the model is the bezel has a Florentine engraving, as does the top of the lugs.  At first glimpse, you might wonder if it was done aftermarket, or even damaged.

Initially the T-205 was offered for $140.  That's about $1,500 in today's dollars.  You'd be hard-pressed to find a new solid gold watch today for anywhere near $1,500.


By 1964, the price increased $10 to $150.  The catalog depictions show the engraving to the case but don't really do the case justice.


The T-205 was offered on a croc strap and there doesn't appear to have been a bracelet paired with it.  As you might surmise by the 200-family name, the T-205 was the 5th Thin-o-matic cased in solid 14K gold.  Thin was in, in the 1960s and thin watches were very popular in Hamilton's lineup as well as other makers of fine watches.

My project watch is in good shape overall.  Very typical for a watch that lost it's crown and was put away in the sock drawer for 40 years.  There's really no mystery as to why the crown is missing.  This is a one-piece case and requires a two-piece stem.  Undoubtedly the crown was lost when the two-piece stem separated - either by mechanical failure or rust.  The dial looks very good though, so I doubt there's too much water damage.


The back of the case is very flat - tell-tale evidence that a micro-rotor movement is contained within.  Thin-o-matics used a couple of different designs for movements.  One was made by ETA and equipped with a conventional automatic framework, albeit a thinner than what Accumatics used.  The other designs were made by Buren, which Hamilton eventually purchased.  Buren made the micro-rotor movements that powered most Thin-o-matic models.


The lugs on this case exhibit wear grooves consistent with the use of a metal bracelet.  It was probably attached after purchase and is a great example of why I recommend a leather strap over a bracelet.


With the crystal lifted out of the way, the movement drops easily out of the case.  You can see the engraving on the bezel and the lugs that makes this model unique.


There are several similar calibers used in Thin-o-matics.  The initial movements were pink and by the late 1960s the movements became white (or silver) colored.  The white movements are used in the TM-line of Thin-o-matics, and were also made by Buren, which was owned by Hamilton by that time.

This movement is a 663 movement with 17 jewels.


The dial side of the main plate is unremarkable and looks like every other pink microrotor other than the calendar-equipped versions.


Everything is taken apart and cleaned - which is saying something.  I haven't counted but it feels like there are twice as many parts in a micro rotor movement than in a conventional automatic.  Piece by piece, it all goes back together with fresh lubricants - eventually.


Finally!  The movement is back together enough to be functional and running.  The only things missing are the oscillating weight and the dial-side parts.  It's off to the timer to see how it's performing.


Nothing wrong with this timing.


The oscillating weight goes on next and it's seated deep enough to not drag the case but also clear the main plate.  The male stem in the movement is a little rusty - that's probably why the two-piece stem separated.  I will replace it with a male stem with more "meat".


Now comes the tricky part... fitting a new stem and crown.  This movement has the male-side of the stem in the movement so the female side must be retained in the crown.  I was able to find a Hamilton crown in my stash of parts - a very fitting use for a solid gold Thin-o-matic.  The trick will be to trim the female stem to the proper length so it's not too long or too short.


There... the finished watch looks perfect- especially with a proper crown, new crystal and a genuine lizard strap.  This unique watch would be a prized member of anyone's Hamilton collection.   


As 2024 comes to a close, if you find that you're another year older and it's a little harder to believe, let me extend my deepest hopes that Christmas has found you too this year and that you and yours celebrate a wonderful Christmas.  May the new year bless you with health, wealth, and happiness.

Thursday, December 19, 2024

1959 Sea-Cap

The end of the 1950s brought a lot of innovation to Hamilton's watch line up.  Electric models were newly introduced.  Watches were getting "thin".  Lots of models used a variety of automatic movements.  Many models were marketed as "weatherproof".

Hamilton's first foray into environmentally protected watches was their "CLD" line... or "sealed".  Prior to that most models were dust-proof, if that.

There are three cardinal rules to vintage watches... (1) don't drop them, (2) keep them away from magnets, and (3) don't get them wet.  Once water gets inside the case it can wreak havoc with the dial, hands, and the movement.

To be waterproof there are special tests that need to be performed.  A watch may be waterproof initially but after a few years of normal use, gaskets can leak, etc and you'd be wise to treat a nice waterproof watch like any other watch - and keep it away from the water.  Save the swimming, showering, car washing for a watch you consider disposable.

The typical approach to waterproofing a case is to limit the number of ways water can get in.  Having a one-piece case that opens through the crystal helps a lot.  Having a round crystal that is press-fit into the case offers a great seal.  That leaves just the stem opening and a crown with a gasket offers a good seal - for a while.  Most water-damaged watches I have seen have moisture getting in through the stem tube.

The 1959 Sea-Cap was marketed as "waterproof" but I wouldn't trust one today.  It's actually an unusual design and different from most waterproof watches.  It has a two piece with a gasket in between.

The Sea Cap was produced for three years.  The first year offered a metal bracelet with a leather insert.  You had your choice of a white-dialed or a black-dialed model with luminous hands and markers.


The later two years displayed a different bracelet design - so if you have an original bracelet you might be able to date the watch.


Tucked inside the Sea Cap you will find a Hamilton 671 movement.  This Swiss-made movement is based on the ETA 1080 and it's very similar to the 672 Automatic movement, the latter having the extra bits of the automatic framework attached to the back.

My project watch is a black dialed version.  I has a metal/leather bracelet that looks great with the watch but isn't quite the original design.  There's something amiss with the crown - it shouldn't be sticking out so far - it's a bit wobbly.


You can see the pronounced lip on the case back between the lugs where you can insert a case knife to pry the back off.  Notice there's a stem tube... it's part of the case back, not the front. So this will require a two piece stem. 


The owner of the watch sent along a white dialed Sea Cap to use has a donor if necessary.  It doesn't have a crown but if the black version goes well, maybe I can rescue them both.


With the front of the case out of the way, you can see the movement and dial are retained in the case back.  There's a black gasket surrounding the circumference.  The crown unscrewed off so I should be able to lift the movement out of the case back with the stem intact.


The 671 movement appears to be in good shape.  The female side of the two-piece stem isn't rusty at all - that's a great sign.


The male-side of the stem (called a hub) is dirty at best, and hopefully not rusted.  With luck I'll be able to reuse the stem and crown.


Everything is disassembled and cleaned.  It's now all bright and shiny.


The balance wheel has tiny weights around the perimeter.  These weights are used to poise, or balance, the wheel but also serve to adjust the timing.  One of the weights came off in the ultrasonic cleaner.  You can see it in the photo below.  Can you tell where it's supposed to go?


Without that tiny weight, the balance would run a LOT faster and the timing would vary based on position (dial up, dial down, etc).  I need to put it back in the correct spot.  Each side of the wheel is symmetrical so I just need to find the spot where there's a weight on one side but on 180 degrees opposite.  In order to install such a tiny screw, you really need a pin vice, like shown, to grasp the screw so you can insert and turn it in the proper spot.


The reassembled movement is now ticking away with a good motion.  The amplitude is a little low but that's because the movement isn't fully wound yet.  A quick tweak to the regulator will slow it down a smidgen.


The finished watch looks great.  Black dials are extremely hard to photograph as they show every spec of dust that could land on the crystal.


Since nothing needed to be replaced on the black Sea Cap, I was able to restore the white Sea Cap too.  It just needed a male stem hub and a new crown


Monday, December 16, 2024

1948 Dennis

This has been a very challenging year for me and my family.  There have been many demands for my time in a myriad different directions.  The one thing I have not been able to do is work on watches.  However, it's now December and I'm finally off for the rest of the year.  I still have a ton of things I need to accomplish but I've found some time to work on the long queue of projects on my work bench.

The oldest, and first in line, is a 1948 Dennis.  The Dennis was introduced in 1948 and produced through 1951.  It has typical 1940's styling and is rather small by today's standards.  I would describe it as "sleek" and "refined".  It was offered only with a sterling silver dial, outfitted with applied solid gold numerals.


The case is 10K yellow gold filled and that would imply it has a 14/0 sized 980 movement with 17 jewels.  The 980 movement is essentially the same as the 982 movement but lacks cap jewels on the escape wheel.  All of the other parts are interchangeable.

My project watch is "well worn" and shows it.  The lens on my camera was smudged, unbeknownst to me, so my photos are a bit soft.  My apologies.


One of the interesting aspects of the Dennis is it has a fairly narrow lug width and takes a 9/16" strap, or 14mm in today's parlance.  That's typically the realm of ladies straps today so you have to find a "Long" strap to outfit a Dennis for a man's wrist.  In this watch's situation, a one-piece nato-style strap has been added.  I think these straps look a little too casual for a fine dress watch but my main concern is they add a lot of wear to the case back too.


With the strap removed you can see the wear that a nato-strap can inflict.  It's not a concern for a stainless steel case back but for gold filled you would eventually regret this application.


The dial is an older refinished dial.  It's close to being correct but the seconds register is a little too narrow.  The green silhouetting around the numbers is a tell tale sign that moisture has gotten into the case.  There's nothing I can do about it, as cleaning a refinished dial can often result in removal of the printing.  The second hand is black and is clearly a replacement. 


My camera lens is dirty but it's clear enough to show that the crystal on this watch is long overdue for replacement.


The inside of the case back makes identification easy - it's clearly marked "Dennis".  There are loads of watchmaker marks inside so this watch has been well cared for as well as well used.


The 980 movement is highly damascened - an interesting attribute since only watchmaker's would appreciate how well made Hamilton movements are.  Some of the black enamel has fallen out of the engravings - that happens after repeated cleanings.  The movement looks good overall - just some rust on the stem and keyless works.


The back of the dial has numbers scratched in.  That's a clear sign that the dial has been refinished at least once.  The numbers don't represent anything to anyone other than whoever refinished the dial.


While the parts are being cleaned, I will prep a new glass crystal and white alloy mainspring for installation.


Everything is cleaned and dried before reassembly.


My blurry camera photo has frozen the balance in time but the reassembled movement is ticking away with a nice motion.


Overall it's running great.  The beat error of 3.1 is just outside my upper spec of 3.0ms.  That's a measure of how well centered the balance is relative to the pallet for.  It can be adjusted but doing so also risks goofing up an otherwise fine balance.  In this case my instincts are to let sleeping dogs lie. 


A new 14mm strap and a nice crystal go a long way toward improving the appearance of this Dennis.  I was able to clean up the dial a smidgeon but it will continue to show the water damage unless it gets refinished again.  But when you reach the age of 76 you might show some spots too.  To my eye, it's just part of the appeal of a vintage Hamilton watch.