I've often been asked what my favorite model is, and that's a difficult question to answer. There are so many to choose from. I've also been asked if I have a favorite movement to work on. That's also a difficult question to answer.
It's easier to answer the converse question, do I have a least favorite? In that context, my least favorite movements are the second generation micro-rotor calibers used in the Thin-o-matic models in the late 1960s and 1970s. Those are the silver-colored microrotors. They're quality movements but they have an offset center wheel and often suffer from a loose arbor that makes the hands appear to slowly even though the movement is keeping accurate time.
My second least favorite movements are the first generation micro-rotors that are pink. They're also quality movements, they just have a gazillion small parts to keep track of and once they're assembled they sounds a little "crunchy" when they wind. Just the nature of the beast I suppose but I much prefer the manual winding movements or the ETA automatics.
I don't dislike the pink micro-roters enough to turn them down when they're in need of restoration. They usually power large, but thin, models and they make for great dress watches. They just take more time and patience to overhaul.
My most recent project watch is a 1959 Thin-o-matic T-450. It was produced through 1963 but I don't think you find this model that frequently in the wild. The 4 in 450 means it has a gold filled case and the 5 means it has a stainless steel back. The 0 means it was the first Thin-o-matic with a gold filled case and stainless steel back. Next in line would be the T-451, and T-452. Those are the only Thin-o-matics with gold filled cases and stainless backs, other than the calendar models, and I haven't come across one of those yet.
My project watch arrived on a metal bracelet. It's not the original bracelet but it's not too far off. The one thing you'll immediately notice is the dial is askew. The crown is missing and its safe to assume the stem is too, or the movement wouldn't have been able to rotate. It looks like the hour hand has been rubbig the dial, based on the marks on the dial below the Hamilton logo.
The case back unscrews so the movement comes out of the back. Sometimes the stainless steel back is integral to the bezel and the movement is a "front loader", but not on this model.
Neatly secured inside the case is the aptly numbered "beast" of a movement, the 666. There are two movement retaining clips. They don't appear to be properly placed though, which may be why the movement was loose enough to rotate. At least they're there though. Sometimes they get lost to time.
Sure enough, there is no stem inside the movement so it didn't break off, it simply came out. The set lever screw might be loose or the set lever worn down.
In this photo you can see the rub marks from the hour hand. I'll see if I can reduce them with a little wax polish. I doubt it, but you never know. The luminous paint on the hands the dial dots will be removed and replaced with modern luminous paint.
Close inspection reveals the tip of the set lever is missing. I suspect it broke off somehow and could no longer hold the stem in place.
I have a donor movement that I can steal the set lever from, and any other parts that need replacement. Notice the tip of this set lever comes to a point.
Everything is cleaned and dried. The case back shows the tell-tale sign of a loose rotor. I'll take extra care to seat it more properly so it doesn't drag on the back.
The reassembled movement, without a rotor yet, is now ticking away and placed on the timer.
It's running a little fast but that an easy adjustment. The amplitude is a little low but I haven't wound it up all the way. Otherwise everything is looking good.
With a new crystal, crown, fresh lume and a polished up case and bracelet, this 60+ year old T-450 is ready for wrist time. This is a good sized watch and would look fitting on a wrist even by today's standards.
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