Hamilton provided field watches to LL Bean for several years in the 1980s and 90s. You can find them with mechanical movements, quartz movements and even automatic movements. The original field watches were based largely on the military models, and what appears to be specifically the GG-W-113. They also made a pocket watch version that I've always been curious about... did it have a larger pocket watch movement too?
Priced at $75 in the early 1980s, that seems like a pretty good price by today's standards... around $200 give or take. When in decent shape, they often sell for north of $200 today on eBay, and I have never succeeded in purchasing one, until now.
My LL Bean pocket watch is in need of some TLC, which is probably why I was able to get it. The luminous paint on the hands had failed and it was rather grungy in general.
My watch even came with its original fob, as shown in the catalog depiction.
The crystal on my watch is cracked and needs to be replaced.
Other than being quite a bit larger, the case back looks very similar to the wrist watch version of the field watch. There's a little recess on the side where a case knife can pry the back off.
Well, mystery solved - the movement inside is a 17 jewel Hamilton 649 movement, just like in the field watch and the GG-W-113, along with a substantial movement ring to secure it inside the case.
Like other watches with this movement, it has a golden lever inside that stops the balance when the time is set... also known as "hack".
While the parts are being cleaned I will prep a new crystal for installation. This is the same style crystal I'd use other models, just with a 36.2mm diameter. However, the wrist watch version also had a reflector ring.
Everything is cleaned, dried, and laid out for reassembly. There's a clear gasket inside the case back to help seal the watch.
The movement is back to running order. It's off to the timer to see how it's performing.
It's running a smidgen fast but that should be easy to adjust.
11 seconds fast... that should be good for now and it might slow a little as it settles in.
The finished project watch now looks like it's ready to go into a new LL Bean catalog. I even put the fob on in the same manner in which the catalog depicted it. The hands and dial have been relumed so they will glow in the dark again. This pocket watch turned out great, I'm glad I picked one up!
Information about vintage Hamilton watch repair, restoration, models, and advice for collecting and collectors
Welcome
Greetings!
Do you fix other people's pocket watch. I have a LL Bean pocket watch can you do a service on this and make it run like new or fix it like yours.
ReplyDeleteAny competent watchmaker can overhaul an LL Bean pocket watch. It has a standard ETA movement.
DeleteI have one of these watches, and it does not work for very long unless I shake it. Is there a certain way I need to shake it to keep it wound? Also, I don't know how to change the time. Thanks
ReplyDeleteShaking is not needed but winding it is. You change the time by pulling the crown out and pushing it back in to wind the watch. If it doesn’t run long, it should be cleaned and oiled.
DeleteGreetings. I have recently purchased a cosmetically beautiful pocket Hamilton L.L. Bean pocket watch. It is my first mechanical watch and do not know how to wind it, or how many times. Do you only turn it one direction. It feels difficult to do. Yes, it is special to me and I am afraid to break it.
ReplyDeleteDavid.
It winds clockwise if you’re holding the watch in your left hand and winding the crown with the right. You wind it until it stops turning. Then it’s fully wound. The movement hacks, or stops, when you pull the crown out to set the time. It should start again when you push the crown back into the winding position. If the watch is new to you and hasn’t been cleaned and oiled, that should be you’re first step.
DeleteThank you so very much for your quick response. It is greatly appreciated.
DeleteDavid.
I don't know if you still read these, given how old this post is, but I've acquired the same pocket watch and it needs a good cleaning. Do you recommend any particular lubricant for this kind of movement? I'm interested in the tools you use. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteRead my "tools you need" post
DeleteHey there! Thanks for the great read. I recently had my early 80s LL BeanxHamilton serviced. The ETA is perfect but the crown had to be replaced bc the one I had was letting moisture in. Now I’m in search of a NOS crown to match. I’m wondering if you have any idea what the crown tube diameter would be on yours (or mine?) or where to find that info? Thanks!
ReplyDelete