1966 Bartley

 Earlier this month I did a post on the 1935 Bartley.  30 years later Hamilton introduced another model with the same name.  There's no resemblance between the two or connection as far as I'm aware.  The latter Bartley was introduced in 1966 and produced through 1969.  It's unusual in that it's one of a few men's models to not feature a second hand.  That was a little more common in the late 1960s. 

The Bartley was presented in a 10K Rolled Gold Plated (RGP) case with a stainless steel back.  It's pretty much an entry level model in the terms of Hamiltons line up but priced at around $70 it wasn't "cheap" .

Based on the catalog, it may be safe to assume that it was presented only on a metal bracelet, as it doesn't mention the option of a strap.

My project watch has been patiently waiting it's trip to the spa.  I've had it for a long time, years in fact.  It's on a bracelet too but it's an aftermarket Speidel and doesn't do much for me other than pull the occasional arm hair - so it will have to go.

Looking closely at the catalog image, my watch has different hands.  That's not entirely unheard of.  It wasn't uncommon for the factory to use what it had available, especially in really busy times of the year like graduation or Christmas time frames.  If you didn't have the catalog to compare to there would be no reason to question the style of the hands, they are very fitting and the proper length.  The minute hand should reach the nearest figure or marker.

The crystal is acrylic and although it doesn't look too bad from the front, from the side there is a lot of internal crazing.  So I'll replace it with a glass crystal that's more fitting.

The dial appears to be original.  It has a nice radial finish with a little wear to the edges where it rubs against the case.  The -SWISS- on the dial is a clue that this model features an imported movement.

Tucked inside the case is a 17 jewel Hamilton 681 movement.  It's based on a A Schild 1200, in case you need to find parts.  Notice the inside of the case back has two sets of numbers.  The upper one with the R is unique to this example and the other one is the model number.  The fact that it ends with 66 implies this model was introduced in 1966.

The dial side of the movement is very simple and has just the basics.

While the movement is being cleaned I will prepare a glass crystal for installation.  The numbers 222 and 222 imply this is a square crystal, no difference between the top/bottom vs the sides.

All the parts and cleaned and ready to be reassembled.  I like the 681, it's a very thin movement and it almost assembles itself.

With the balance reinstalled and the balance jewels secured by the shock spring, the movement is back to ticking away.  It's looking good so far.

Not too shabby at all.  I'll see if I can fine tune it any further.

A tweak here, a tweak there, a little more, a little less - eventually I get it dialed in very nicely.

The new crystal looks great and a nice leather strap completes the restoration of this almost 60 year old watch.  It's a very simple but elegant design, don't you think?

1968 Thinline 6507

 It's been a while since I came across a new model that I haven't done.  This one is a Thinline 6507.  I could have sworn I'd seen one before but, to my surprise, I hadn't.  That's probably because it looks like a lot of other watches.

There are plenty of ubiquitous round models with all numeral dials and at first glance I would guess the Thinline 6507 was just another "sea-something".  It came in a 10K RGP case with a stainless steel back.  I guess what set it apart from the other similar models is it's thin-ness.  Thin was in, in the 1960s.

This model only shows up in the 1968 catalog and, like a lot of models, it didn't make the transition into the 1970s.

My project watch arrived with a request to check it out as it "had been recently serviced'.  It doesn't look very clean to my eye but I was also asked to not polish the case so maybe that's the way the owner likes it to look.

The case back is stainless steel and exhibits the scars of several desperate attempts to open the case.  Fortunately they were not successful, as this is a one piece case and opens through the crystal. 

Tucked inside the case is a Hamilton 639 movement.  This caliber is based on a Buren 280.  Hamilton owned Buren by this time and would move production to Buren's factory in Switzerland in just another year after this watch was made.

Does this look like a recently serviced movement to you?   Me either.  Of course, some people have a different definition of "service".  I know a few ebay sellers who define service as "I put fresh oil where I could reach", which is like putting on new deodorant and calling yourself clean.  You may smell clean but you're still dirty.  This is not a clean movement. 

With the hands and dial removed, the dial-side of the main plate doesn't look recently serviced either.  In fact, I see some minor rust starting to form on the stem and set lever.

My definition of service is to take the movement completely apart and thoroughly clean all the parts to get rid of any old oil, grease or debris inside.  Then put it all back together with fresh lubricants in all the specified wear places.

The reassembled movement is now ticking away with a nice motion.  Notice how much bright and shiny it is now.

It's running a bit slow.  Fortunately it won't take much of an adjustment to bring the beat rate right in line.

There - pretty much right on the money now.

One of the reasons the stem and set lever were rusty is the crown is shot.  I'll install a new one (on the right).  Fortunately I can reuse the female stem hub.

I installed a new crystal but left the case in it's current condition.  It looks great and is now officially "serviced".

1948 Milton

When it comes to describing classic men's watches I think it really depends on the decade in question.  The 1960's was all about stylish round watches like featured in the TV series "Mad Men".  However, the generation that stormed the beaches of Anzio, Normandy, and Iwo Jima wore much smaller watches and often a tank style.

One of my favorite 1940s watches is the 1948 Milton.  It was produced through 1952 and it's design is timeless.  If you didn't know better you might think it was from the 1930s or made into the 1950s.

As introduced in 1948, the Milton was offered in a 14K natural gold filled case with solid 18K applied gold numerals and dots on the dial.  It was priced at $71.50... that's almost $1,000 in today's currency.

By 1952, nothing had changed with the Milton, even the price was the same.

The 19 jewel movement listed in the catalog was the 14/0 sized 982 movement.  At this time the 982M was used in the solid gold models and the 982 was used in 14K gold filled cases.

As I said, I like the Milton.  It has a very simple but elegant design and it's a decent sized watch, even by today's standards... it's not too big and it's not too small.

I've had my project watch waiting in the wings for a while now.  It came on a vintage metal strap with a clasp, not an expansion bracelet.  The crystal on the watch is plastic and a cylinder design with high walls.  I think that has protected the case from wear but this watch looks like its had very little, if any wear at all.

With the bezel removed I can take a closer look at the dial.  As far as I can tell this is the original dial.  The finish on it is perfect.

The inside of the case back has the model name inside - this is probably one of the earliest models to get the name inside the case back.  That's very much a 1950's thing.

The mainspring inside the barrel has set into a tight coil and will have to be replaced.  I find that is the situation with the majority of movements I overhaul from this era.

Everything is cleaned and inspected.  I need to replace the pallet fork, it's missing the lower pivot.  Other than that, this movement is in excellent shape.

The reassembled movement is ticking away thanks to a new pallet fork and white alloy mainspring.  Let's see what the timer thinks.  Based on the serial number, this movement dates the watch to 1950.

Nothing wrong with this movement - it's perfect and I'll leave it right like this.

This watch turned out fantastic.  Even Santa's little helper agrees that this Milton is a keeper.  It's too big for his wrist though, this may have to be a pocket watch for him.